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Blackheads? Maybe Not.

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Those little dark dots on your nose may not be blackheads. Let’s take a look!

More than lines and wrinkles, more than spots and poor texture – more than dry, oily, sensitive and any combination of complaints I may hear, “I have blackheads” is THE number 1 complaint I hear in the studio. It seems we human beings, despite whatever other skin care concerns we may have, are plagued with these pesky dark dots that like to appear, most commonly, on our noses and chins, and very inner cheeks. These little dark dots may be less or more severe depending on  the individual, but for most us, they’re there.

Now, as a skin therapist, I don’t care how my guests refer to these – clogged pores, blackheads, “stuff in my pores”, junk, whatever. I hear it all. What I do mind, though, is the mass  market that sells to the notion of “blackheads” when often these are not blackheads at all, but instead “sebaceous filaments”. Most of the products out there that claim to resolve blackheads would never even begin to impede the existence of a true blackhead, and half  the time will do very little for sebaceous filaments either.

So, let’s look at a real blackhead so I can show you why all those products that claim to get rid of blackheads – don’t.

Used with permission. DermNetNZ ©Professor Suhonen.

See those dark plugs in the skin? THOSE are blackheads. They are large, solid masses that have formed inside a follicle. The mixture here is of skin cell protein (keratin), and oil (sebum). These are sizable impactions that come out as a solid plug, or what I often call a “kernel” as that is what they look like when extracted. True blackheads may squeeze out with pressure when extracted, but they often need assistance from tweezers to pull out the entire mass. The top of the blackhead will be the size you see at the skin’s surface, while the bottom end will be thin, light in color, and not hardened like the top. The darkness on top is the result of melanin-filled skin cells and sebum that  have been oxidized by air – not dirt.

Let’s say all those magical blackhead-removing products cleansed the tops off these blackheads (they won’t) – but what’s the chances they’re capable of literally pushing them up and out of the skin, freely and clearly?

They can’t. The takeaway here is that what are marketed as blackhead removing products are really marketing to clogged pores/sebaceous filaments.

Unless you have large, hard masses in your skin that resemble the above, you likely do not have true blackheads.

Now, let’s take a look at what is probably more the case.

Used with permission. © DermNetNZ

See the tiny specks on this particular nose? These are sebaceous filaments. Feel free to call them whatever you like, but when you’ve got out that 50x beauty mirror, don’t let it lie and tell you that you have the world’s worst case of blackheads. You don’t. Promise.

This nose is classic for what I see on a day to day basis. Heck, I even have sebaceous filaments on MY nose, and let me tell you – they’re there, they are never going to permanently go away, and all  these trendy tools for ridding your nose of them may do more harm than good.

What’s a sebaceous filament? Well, these little “holes” in our skin that we most often call pores are actually tiny, tiny hair follicles. At the bottom of that hair follicle is an oil gland. Inside that hair follicle are skin cells that shed on a daily basis. Within that tiny follicle, there’s a miniscule little hair that you’re unlikely to ever be able to see. That virtually invisible little hair acts as a wick to deliver all the aforementioned “stuff” up to the surface. What creates the darkened effect at the surface is pretty much the same as with blackhead – it’s just cells and fats that have become oxidized. It’s not dirt. It’s not that you don’t wash your face, and there’s nothing you’ll do to stop these from forming forever. In fact, in dermatology, sebaceous filaments are considered a standard, normal feature of human skin.

Now that we’ve discovered what those pesky dark specks in our pores really are, we’ll go over what to do – and even more importantly – what not to do about them.

Don’t:

  • Rely on pore strips. Though these can occasionally rip off the tops of little plugs in the pores, they do nothing to further purify or clarify the pores and can cause damage to your skin and leave behind more visible capillaries.
  • Buy into those trendy rip-off masks that are circulating social media. The same downsides to pore strips apply to  these painful masks.
  • Obsess over washing your face. AM/PM cleansing is all that is necessary for almost all skin.
  • Over exfoliate. Over exfoliation is one of the biggest problems in all aspects of healthy skin. Check with your esthetician on the appropriate form of exfoliation for your precious skin and the proper frequency of use.
  • Fall victim to the beauty mirror. The magnified beauty mirrors are great tools for applying makeup, but please for the love of good skin – don’t post up in front of that thing and start digging, prodding, poking and picking. A) NO ONE is looking at your skin that close unless it’s your esthetician, and B) If you start looking in those mirrors for imperfections, you’ll literally never see the end of them. Walk away!
  • Perform self-extractions. The problem here is that most of us just can’t stop. If you are red, swollen, inflamed, and standing there for more than 2 or 3 minutes – it’s too much. Angle and technique are huge for extractions, and it’s extremely difficult to do them properly on yourself.

Do:

  • Cleanse your skin AM/PM with a cleanser appropriate for your skin. [Tip: That may not always mean a foamy cleanser!]
  • Exfoliate according to your skin care professional’s recommendations. This varies by the individual. From type of exfoliant to frequency of use, it’s super important you have a personalized exfoliation routine. Dropping countless bucks down the drain at counters on products that look pretty but aren’t ideal for your skin – just a waste of time and dollars.
  • Get regular professional treatments. Professional extractions, done properly, do not damage skin. A well-trained skin therapist has the proper technique, preparation products and tools to perform safe extractions and knows when enough is enough.
  • Be consistent. A facial twice a year will never be enough to keep pores refined and clarified. If clarified skin is truly what you want, consistency is key.
  • Keep in mind that everyone’s skin does not follow the same timeline. In general, it is typical to expect visible plugged pores to return within about 30 days. For some, this timeline will be even shorter. This is one of the reasons we suggest monthly skin care services.
  • Avoid pore clogging ingredients and especially coconut oil on your face. Coconut oil has become such a popular oil and is touted as a miracle cure for just about everything. Unfortunately, as healthy as it is for some to eat, it’s a 4 on a 5 point scale for being pore-clogging.

Professional Treatments for Sebaceous Filaments

My go-to treatment for cleaning out pores are Ultrasonic Facials. These are painless, non-invasive services that use ultrasonic frequency to pressure wash the skin and force debris out the of pores without causing damage.

Next, skin peels. Light peels can really work to dissolve the contents of the pores and also superficially tighten the pore’s surface. This combination can be a fabulous one for reducing pore visibility and increasing clarity. It does not require super strong peels to accomplish this, so just about anyone can receive a mild peel for clarifying purposes.

What About Real Blackheads?

Although we all will likely have a true blackhead at some point or another (even if not on the face), blackheads are more associated with acneic skin conditions and must be softened and removed from the skin through a series of professional extraction services and proper home care. If you’re struggling with blackheads as a result of acne, please check out the Acne Clearing Program.

In Conclusion

I see new products hitting the social media feeds each day that promise to remove every last “blackhead” from a person’s complexion. In reality, blackheads are an entirely different skin condition, and the sebaceous filaments that consumers actually are looking to get rid of are a perfectly normal aspect of human skin. It is possible to dramatically improve the appearance of the pores, but no product will permanently remove them or tighten pores to a non-existent state. Customized home care and consistency with targeted professional services are the best way to achieve clarified skin.

Gelatin for Better Skin

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Learn How Gelatin Can Improve Your Skin

Gelatin for Better Skin

Although most of us think of jiggly, colorful bowls of sugary Jello when we think of gelatin, after reading this article, you’ll have an entirely new outlook on gelatin and why you may want to supplement with it for healthier, more vibrant skin.

Gelatin is type of protein that is derived from collagen. This collagen comes from animal parts that are no longer commonly consumed in the American diet. You see, we live in different times. Historically, mankind did not have the luxury of being overly choosy about which parts of the animal would be eaten. This meant that bones were used for creating broths, soups, and stews, while other parts of the animal from organs, to skin,  to cuts of meat containing large amounts of cartilage and sinew would be cooked in any number of ways – and consumed. It just so happens, that in our taste for “good” cuts of meat, we’re throwing away some of the healthiest parts of the meat we eat: the collagen rich parts. Unfortunately, this tossing aside of the collagen-rich portions of food means we get far less collagen naturally in our diets and this affects everything from our joint health, to our digestive health, to our skin health (and more).

You see, there are (at least) 16 types of collagen found in the human body. Yes, there are actually different types of collagen! It isn’t all just the stuff that makes your skin look plump and youthful (although I know we beauty enthusiasts are primarily concerned with that type of collagen). Collagen, in its various forms, is the predominant protein of the human body and is found in muscle, tendons, skin and even bones! As we age, collagen production decreases. This decrease begins around the age of 40 and becomes much more dramatic post-menopause. A decrease in collagen production results in compromised integrity of our skin’s structural systems and leads to all the common signs of aging: lines, wrinkles, hollowness beneath the eyes, reduced skin hydration, and laxity. In truth, there are far worse problems that may occur in the body when collagen is decreased (like poor joint health), but since this article is about gelatin and your skin, we’ll focus on the important relationship between your skin and your collagen intake.

Our bodies construct themselves from the foods and drinks we consume. This is as true for your skin as any other organ. With the slowing down of collagen production mentioned earlier, one way we can continue to provide our bodies with the building blocks for healthy skin is through consuming foods rich in those nutrients which are integral to healthy, firm skin. Gelatin is a key player in this arena, as it is full of just the right amino acids for producing long term structural improvements in your skin and other body tissues. Have you ever cooked up a pot of soup or made a stew and noticed that overnight some strange jelly-like substance formed in the pot? That’s gelatin. That’s collagen. That weird gelatinous stuff makes for healthy skin (and joints, and bones). Adding gelatin to your diet (we’ll talk about how to do this next) can create substantial improvements in the health of your skin over time. To be clear, this is not a magic potion that will mysteriously make your skin look 20 years younger after a few days to a week (those don’t exist in reality). Instead, it is a longer term plan for providing your body with the raw materials  it needs in order to produce healthy skin tissue over the course of your life.

A decrease in collagen production results in compromised integrity of our skin’s structural systems and leads to all the common signs of aging: lines, wrinkles, hollowness beneath the eyes, reduced skin hydration, and laxity.

When a person begins supplementing with gelatin, she may notice some changes rather quickly; others may think is happening at all. Because we see ourselves every day, we don’t always notice those small improvements the way someone who only sees us occasionally will. Conversely, if we have a significant problem that a certain nutrient really hits hard very quickly – we’ll be more apt to notice changes sooner than expected. Then, there is the fact that for people who begin caring for their skin early on – they may never witness marked “improvements” because there was never much to improve. Rather, the skin is healthier overall, ages less quickly, and retains more youthful qualities over a longer span of time.

Gelatin and Skin

Adding gelatin to your diet can lessen the appearance of wrinkles, slow down the early onset of sagging skin, maintain and improve skin firmness, increases skin hydration levels, and aid in maintaining and restoring vibrancy and vitality to your complexion. Problems in any of these areas are often related to both damaged collagen fibers and a slowing down of collagen production. Daily gelatin consumption can improve these conditions – along with creating benefits for your hair, nails, joints, and bones.

The tricky thing about supplementing with gelatin is that gelatin – gels. Certain more processed forms of gelatin are both hot and cold water soluble, but the standard form of gelatin is only soluble in hot water. For this reason, many people will mix a few teaspoons to 1 tablespoon in a hot cup of coffee or tea. Interestingly, it really has no taste, so although I was skeptical about mixing gelatin into coffee, I can tell you – it’s completely tolerable! Another way of getting gelatin into your daily food plan is by mixing it into smoothies that will be well blended. Again, gelatin gels, so you have to watch how much you’re adding. A tablespoon of gelatin mixed with cold liquids will turn into a giant glob of unappealing goop. This is where the blender comes in. Blend a smoothie like crazy to distribute the gelatin. Gelatin can also be added to warm breakfast cereals like oatmeal, hot soups, stews, and broths, and can even be tossed in to other recipes you might make. I read about one lady who randomly adds gelatin to all sorts of recipes – from meatloaf to chili. Because it dissolves in hot liquids, it can be added to any number of dishes where it will never be noticed.

The type of gelatin I use is a bulk Unflavored Gelatin. I am an Amazon Prime member, so I just have it shipped in as needed. This particular gelatin is used widely in both  the culinary world and by people who supplement with gelatin. There is no flavor, it is basically colorless and odorless. I began supplementing with gelatin at about 1 tablespoon per day, but am now taking 2 tablespoons daily. I divide this amount between morning and evening – or frankly, whenever I find it convenient.


While discussing gelatin as a form of collagen supplement, you’re likely to wonder if topical collagen products work. Here’s the problem: collagen is  a big, fat, protein molecule. It doesn’t do so well, being so large, at penetrating the very tight network that is the surface of your skin. Remember, your skin’s surface is a network of keratin filled skin cells which are surrounded by a matrix of lipids (fats) and  other goodies that are meant to keep bad stuff out and good stuff in. So, although some ingredients and nutrients do very well at penetrating this barrier, big molecules do not. Collagen on the skin’s surface works more like a (very) temporary patch. There is no long term improvement to the deeper layers of your skin when applying collagen topically. That said, it can make it feel nice and look better – so a collagen mask before an event is never a bad idea. Just remember, in the case of collagen, you really need to be getting it in your body, not just on it!

If you decide to begin supplementing with collagen, I’d love to know! For those who already do, I’d love it if you’d share in the comments how you use it, what you mix it with, and how it’s improved your skin (or anything else).

Strawberries for Better Skin: A Little Berry with Big Benefits!

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Strawberries may be small, but don’t doubt their ability to provide great benefits to your skin.

Strawberries for Skin Health

Here in Tennessee, we’re getting closer and closer to strawberry season. This excites me for a number of reasons, not the least of which is homemade strawberry shortcake.  I love the taste of fresh strawberries, and I enjoy cooking, baking, and preparing jelly and jam with them. Nothing says “summer is on the way” to me more than those beautifully ripened red berries all piled up in a basket. But as an esthetician, I have some other reasons to be fond of strawberries. They truly are a natural bounty of antioxidants and nutrients that are especially useful for those who are interested in healthy skin.

Strawberries are rich in antioxidants. In fact, they’re so full of antioxidants that they rank as the 3rd best source of antioxidants per serving of all commonly consumed US foods! Wow! Now, what do antioxidants do for skin? The short answer is that they limit the production of free radicals, and free radicals are  the monstrous little molecules responsible for most all the damage to our bodies – including our skin. Yes, free radical damage is at the heart of fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation problems, inflammation and redness, and the breakdown of our precious collagen and elastin fibers. Antioxidants, like those found in the Strawberry, effectively reduce the formation of free radicals and thereby slow down  the aging process – even in our skin.

Vitamin C, one of your skin’s most needed vitamins, is also found in Strawberries. As we often like to say in the beauty industry, “Vitamin C brightens, lightens, and tightens“. That is a big reduction in the real science behind Vitamin C, but I don’t want to bore you to tears with chat about physiology and cosmetic chemistry, so we’ll stick with that catch phrase. Vitamin C is directly involved in the production and health of all your important skin cells – again, think collagen and elastin. It is one of the top warriors against the signs of aging, and I am of the school of thought that says “No matter the age or the condition – women looking to improve their skin should be getting topical and nutritional Vitamin C.” When it comes to fresh strawberries, do note that the antioxidant and Vitamin C levels in freshly picked strawberries diminish quickly. So try to scarf down those berries in just a few days to get the fullest benefit of their nutrients.

 

Strawberries have a host of other skin and health benefits. In fact, I would never be able to list them all in a single blog post, but I would like to mention that they are also anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, immune boosting, and somewhat astringent. All of these factors  add up to give us one tiny little fruit that means big business when it comes to health (and healthy skin).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Strawberries can effectively:

  • Reduce breakouts and remove surface oil through astringent activity
  • Brighten complexion
  • Gently exfoliate the skin
  • Assist in slowing down  the visible signs of aging
  • Promote the building of new, healthy skin cells and collagen

Did you know?!

  • The average strawberry has over 200 seeds! By the way, those little seeds make a great addition to face scrubs.
  • The average American consumes 3.4 pounds of strawberries each year. With all the benefits we looked at above, we should try to beat that average this year for sure!

With all these details – what’s not to love? Strawberries – eat them, enjoy them, and your skin will love you for it!

 

How a Silk Pillowcase Can Help Your Skin!

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As a skin care professional, one of my professional obligations is to maintain the appearance of my own skin. So, over the years, I have tried a myriad of lotions, potions, creams, and assorted tools all in efforts of finding a handful of the best products to provide to guests in my skin care studio. I have sought effective answers to skin care concerns – within an affordable price range.

And so my story begins about the quite simple, but beautifully effective – silk pillowcase.

A few months ago, I began to notice very thin horizontal lines under my eyes. I have been blessed with having very few signs of visible aging, so seeing these little lines was no minor matter for me. As I approach 40, I only ponder what these lines will look like in another 10 years. I use all the best cleansers, moisturizers, serums and eye creams. Yet, these particular lines seemed to be forming despite my doing everything “right” in my own skin care routine.

That’s when it occurred to me that it isn’t the products failing. It’s how I sleep.

I am a tummy or side sleeper. I’ve tried the back thing; it just doesn’t work for me. I’m one of those crazies who sleeps with my face smashed in a pillow, and I really don’t have a lot of desire to disrupt my cozy sleeping position. Though, I have tried – all in the name of beauty – I still find myself, face smashed into the pillow upon waking.

But what does that have to do with those (currently) barely visible horizontal lines under my eyes? Everything!

You see, when we sleep on our stomachs or sides, the pressure on our faces is pushing our cheeks up – this creates what I call a “crinkle” in the skin while we sleep. That crinkle is temporary, and goes away after we’re awake… for years. But one day… out from nowhere… we look into the mirror and that darned crinkle has actually begun to be a more permanent wrinkle. Well, we’ll call it a line. But lines become wrinkles later on. And although we may be armed with the most amazing peptide-rich cream, or be getting the most stellar professional skin care services in town – all that squishing up of our facial skin all night long can’t be completely corrected by products or treatments.

It’s a sad fact, but as an honest esthetician – I have to tell you we are not superheros. There are some things we can’t fix. Tummy-sleeper-eye-line-syndrome is one of them. I can plump that line, I can smooth it, I can even strengthen the tissues around it – but as long as that “crinkle” is being formed all night long, a line will eventually result (and worsen with time).

This article actually IS about silk pillowcases, but we had to cover the preliminary findings first. 🙂

After becoming quite disgusted with my crinkles, I began searching all around for solutions. From how to sleep differently, to very bizarre pillows that keep your head at a very bizarre position, to pillowcases, to tape – I researched a ton.

The bizarre pillow was several hundred dollars. Sorry, but if I’m investing a few hundred bucks into my bedroom – it won’t be for a pillow. As noted previously, I tried the sleeping on my back thing. Not happening. Then the tape… affordable solution, but strange feeling, and I can’t quite guarantee that leaving tape on my skin all night long wouldn’t eventually lead to some entirely different issue. So, the final test was a silk pillowcase.

Now, I don’t mean a satin pillowcase. I don’t mean a faux silk pillowcase. I don’t mean some synthetic silk-esque pillowcase.

I mean a bonafide silk pillow case.

I will give specifics a little later.

A silk pillowcase isn’t going to stop you from smashing your face in your pillow. But, it will reduce the tension and friction on your facial skin overnight. Because silk doesn’t wrinkle in the same way cotton does, or tug the same way other fabrics do, when your face is pressed against silk – you have less impressions left behind on the skin, and less pulling of the skin due to reduced friction between the skin and the surface of the pillow.

I was happy to have less crinkly-impact on my skin overnight, but then I discovered a whole benefit I didn’t know existed!

By about day 3 of using my fabulous new silk pillowcase, I noticed something rather remarkable when I washed my face… My skin felt completely different under my finger tips. Maybe you don’t pay attention when you cleanse your skin, and that’s totally okay! But, I do. So when I could tell the texture of my skin felt notably more smooth as I cleansed, I began some further research on what may have caused this, as the pillowcase was the only change to my routine.

What I learned is that silk does not absorb moisture like cotton does. Why does that matter?

Well, I’m sure you’ve heard or read somewhere to wear cotton socks and undies. Ever wonder why? It’s because cotton is super absorbent! It literally wicks away moisture from other surfaces. This is why we use cotton bath towels; think about it!

Silk, however, doesn’t do this. When sleeping against cotton, we’re exposing our skin to a substance that is quite effectively pulling moisture away from us all night long. Not a huge deal really – unless you’re speaking from an anti-aging standpoint. Moisture is critical to beautiful, healthy, youthful looking skin, so just a few days of my face resting on silk instead of cotton – and I was hooked.

Another added benefit is that due to its slippery surface, silk also keeps your hair in better shape. Silk pillowcases cause less hair breakage, again due to reduced friction and tension. I have also noticed a look somewhat less like Medusa in the mornings. My hair is notorious for looking CRAZY when I wake up – something in the silk has at least reduced that to semi-Medusa status. Some ladies actually use silk scarves to wrap their hair at night, but since skin is my focus – I’m just not dedicated enough to do the hair wrap at night. Feel free to try it yourself if you’d like.

So to recap:

  • Tummy and side sleepers actually develop lines on the face as a result all that crinkling of the facial skin going on against the pillow
  • This can’t be totally eliminated without a change in the way you sleep, but a silk pillowcase can definitely help
  • While you’re getting less crinkles, your skin will stay much more hydrated because silk won’t be sucking all the moisture out of your skin
  • This makes silk especially useful for dry skin – even if you don’t have crinkles yet
  • Silk pillowcases are great for your hair too

A few other points:

  • Silk pillowcases are fine for oily skin as well.
  • Some people do have an allergy to an enzyme in silk. But, I don’t care what substance it is – someone will be allergic to it. It’s the times we’re in. Rest assured, silk is a natural and safe substance and unless you DO have an allergy to it, it’s fine. Promise.
  • Don’t get cheapy knock-off pillowcases from who knows where made from who knows what. Shoot for 19 or higher momme charmeuse silk when possible. Momme is simply a measurement for the quality of silk.
  • Care for your silk according to manufacturers directions.

I have come to the professional conclusion that everyone should have a silk pillowcase! I absolutely adore mine, and it not only feels amazing to the skin, it has a very functional purpose: assisting the skin in staying hydrated and crinkle-free. Or, at least crinkle-reduction. Nothing is magic, but silk is pretty close!