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Blackheads? Maybe Not.

By Casey Durrett 17 Comments

 

Sebaceous filaments. Used with permission. © DermNetNZ 

Are Those Really Blackheads? Understanding Sebaceous Filaments and How to Treat Them

When it comes to skincare concerns, nothing gets more attention than those tiny dark dots on the nose. Clients tell me all the time, “I have blackheads!” But more often than not, what they’re seeing isn’t blackheads at all—it’s sebaceous filaments, a completely normal skin feature.

If you’ve spent money on pore strips, trendy masks, or “blackhead-removing” cleansers without success, it’s because most of those products aren’t targeting the real issue. Let’s break down the difference between blackheads and sebaceous filaments—and what you can actually do to minimize their appearance.


Blackheads vs. Sebaceous Filaments: What’s the Difference?

What Is a Blackhead?

blackheads
Blackheads are larger, and harder than sebaceous filaments

A true blackhead (open comedone) is a hardened, solid plug of oil and dead skin trapped inside a pore. These plugs oxidize when exposed to air, turning dark on the surface. Blackheads are firm and often need professional extractions to be fully removed.

What Are Sebaceous Filaments?

Sebaceous filaments, on the other hand, are completely normal. These tiny, pin-sized dots appear in areas with higher oil production, such as the nose, chin, and inner cheeks. Their job is to help guide oil (sebum) to the surface of the skin, keeping it moisturized. They may look dark, but they are not clogged pores or signs of poor hygiene.

No matter how many products claim to “remove” sebaceous filaments, they will always return because they are a natural part of how your skin functions.


What Not to Do for Sebaceous Filaments

While it’s tempting to try every viral hack promising a pore-free complexion, many of these methods do more harm than good.

Avoid These Common Mistakes:

❌ Pore Strips – They may lift the top layer of oil but won’t clear pores long-term.

❌ Peel-Off Masks – These trendy masks are harsh, can cause irritation, and do nothing to prevent sebaceous filaments from returning.

❌ Over-Washing – Cleansing more than twice a day strips your skin of necessary oils, causing it to overproduce sebum.

❌ Over-Exfoliating – Too much exfoliation can damage your skin barrier and lead to increased oil production and irritation.

❌ Magnifying Mirrors & Picking – No one sees your pores the way a 50x mirror does. Constant picking can lead to inflammation, scarring, and even larger-looking pores over time.


What Does Work?

Since sebaceous filaments are normal, the goal isn’t to remove them permanently (that’s impossible) but to keep pores looking clean and refined.

Best Practices for Clearer Pores:

✔️ Gentle Daily Cleansing – Use a cleanser suited to your skin type (not necessarily foaming).

✔️ Proper Exfoliation – Follow a customized exfoliation routine based on your skin’s needs. Overdoing it can backfire!

✔️ Professional Extractions – When done correctly, extractions remove buildup without damaging the skin.

✔️ Consistent Skincare Routine – Occasional facials won’t cut it. Regular treatments (ideally monthly) help keep pores clear.

✔️ Non-Comedogenic Products – Avoid pore-clogging ingredients, especially coconut oil, which is highly comedogenic.


Best Professional Treatments for Sebaceous Filaments

If you want to minimize the look of sebaceous filaments, professional treatments can help:

✨ Ultrasonic Facials – Use sound waves to deeply cleanse pores and remove excess oil without irritation.

✨ Light Chemical Peels – Help dissolve pore buildup and refine the skin’s texture without being overly harsh.


What About True Blackheads?

If you’re dealing with real blackheads—especially those associated with acne—home remedies won’t be enough. Blackheads need professional extraction combined with a tailored skincare regimen. If you struggle with persistent clogged pores and acne, check out my Acne Clearing Program, available both in-studio and virtually.


The Bottom Line

Sebaceous filaments are not blackheads, and no skincare product will permanently eliminate them. However, with the right skincare routine and professional treatments, you can keep your skin looking clear and refined.

Instead of chasing impossible pore-free perfection, focus on consistent care that works with your skin, not against it. If you need help figuring out the best routine for your skin, book a facial at Lantern Skin Studio—let’s create a plan that works for you!

Filed Under: Blog Posts, Skin Care Info, Spa Treatments Tagged With: blackheads, clogged pores, healthy skin, skin, skincare

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Sarah Cummings says

    at

    Woah! This is very informative! Everybody refers to the little dark hole as a blackhead. I really appreciate the photos you’ve provided as it clearly stated the difference between the two.

    Reply
    • Casey Durrett says

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      Thank you, Sarah! Yes, it can be confusing – especially because industry marketers incorrectly reference any little speck in a pore as a blackhead. I appreciate you leaving feedback!!!

      Reply
  2. Kat says

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    I am so happy I fell onto this article. I always thought they were blackheads and tried so many pore strips and focusing cleaning on the end of my nose. But I went for a professional anti-acne facial and got so confused when they said I had no blackheads that needed extraction. I’m now wondering if I ever have actually had blackheads.

    Reply
    • Casey Durrett says

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      Totally understandable, Kat! It would definitely be confusing if no one explained the difference to you! Probably made you feel they didn’t know what they were talking about lol. True blackheads will often feel like a hard seed in the skin and when pressure is applied, they may raise up a bit, and even be so thick and hard that you can pull them out with a tweezer, place them on a tissue and look at them! They are wayyyy different than the little sebaceous filaments most people think are blackheads. Thank you for stopping by!

      Reply
  3. Terry says

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    Thank you so much for this article! I would scrub at my nose and use pore strips and I would be left with this very dry itchy nose…which would then lead me to getting actual zit on my nose afterward. I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. It now makes perfect sense! I was being overly aggressive with my skin probably causing stress to my already clean nose. The picture of the second nose is actually what I have. I thought these must be blackheads, or freckles, or large pores…now I know they are just normal pores that need gentle cleaning twice a day. Thank you Doctor.

    Reply
    • Casey Durrett says

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      Hi Terry! I think we have all torn up our skin thinking we were getting out blackheads! I know I have in the past!!! And yep, just keep skin cleansed and gently exfoliated once a week or so – and go easy on that face! We do way more damage than we realize with all our squeezing and pressing.

      Reply
  4. Janna says

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    This is very helpful but i cant really get the things i need for my nasty oily face, sadly im only a teenager and my father doesnt care enough to let me have nice and clear skin, i do own some face wash and i try to was every night somtimes in the morning. But honestly i dont know what to do the closer i look the more worried i become these pesky dots are starting to look like freckles..though freckles might not be a bad look..but still ew what do i do?

    Reply
    • Casey Durrett says

      at

      Janna, freckles and clogged pores or sebaceous filaments do not look at all the same. A freckle is an actual spot of pigment deep in the skin layers that we can see from the surface, whereas congested skin or sebaceous filaments will actually be isolated within the pore itself. At your age, unless you have truly significant skin challenges, less is more for you. A basic, gentle cleanser, and a light hydrating gel-cream type of product for moisture should really be all you need unless you’ve got a whole lot going on. 🙂

      Reply
  5. Lindsey says

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    What about the pore vacuums are those effective for deep cleaning on our pores and removing everything?

    Reply
    • Casey Durrett says

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      Hi Lindsey! I am really not a fan of pore vacuums. The congestion in pores is usually pretty thick, and if it were as easy as just sucking the contents out, we could just about eliminate a lot of skin troubles just with suction. The material in the pores is a combination of cells and oil (and often other debris) – along with hair (even if so small you can’t see it). A handful of people with exceptionally oily, congested skin, will be able to get material out of their skin via vacuum – but it won’t get down to the deepest parts of the pore (and too much suction is detrimental for skin).

      Reply
  6. Jenny says

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    That’s not it.My husband’s side of his nose has 2-3 dark grey colors and they hurt.

    Reply
    • Casey Durrett says

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      Hi Jenny! I’m unsure what you mean by “that’s not it”, however, if your husband has grey colored areas on his nose, that is definitely something to have a dermatologist check out!

      Reply
  7. Christina says

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    Thank you so, so much for this article! I clicked on this link thinking I would likely read the same jargon I usually do regarding acne and skin but ended up learning a ton of new information. I’ve always had this hatred for what I always thought were stubborn blackheads on my nose; I had no idea that they were actually a very normal and common thing for most of us.

    Reply
    • Casey says

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      Thanks so much for your reply, Christina! I’m happy to know you found this information useful. I see way too many people worrying over “blackheads”, and sometimes really damaging their skin without realizing they don’t even have blackheads!

      Reply
  8. Mele says

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    Thank you for this, it was very informative!! Just wondering though, I heard you mention they can pop up on the nose (which happened with me), but I was wondering can they also pop up under the nose? Because I’m pretty sure I have some there too.

    Reply
    • Casey says

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      Hi Mele, sebaceous filaments can occur anywhere you have pores, but are most noticeable on nose. They are also frequently seen on chin, between the brows and yes, even on the upper lip!

      Reply
  9. FourSeasons Laser says

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    Thank you for educating us! Blackheads are one of the usual skin concerns, so this is a helpful article. Many people surely don’t know about sebaceous filaments.

    Reply

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